Tuesday, April 22, 2014

Bromo, the volcano hike, and Surabya



 To get to the famous Bromo volcano hike I had to first get to Malang to catch a bus to Probolinggo and then catch a mini bus to bromo town and national park.  So I got all my gear together and got a night train to Malang.  I booked accommodations, so I could sleep as soon as I got in.  I knew I wouldn’t be sleeping on the train.  I got in at 5:30 am and my hotel was really close so I just walked over and then took a good long nap.  The hotel was an old Dutch villa and supplied a wonderful breakfast option of eggs and toast or nasi gorang.  I opted for the Indonesian breakfast then headed out to see the town.   

My main goal was to book a tour to a Bromo and Ijen trip by myself.  This was hard to do.  Basicly being a lone traveler means that you spend heaps and heaps to do the tours and because it was the off season I couldn’t even join another tour group. There just weren’t any.  Oh well.  I guess I’ll just have to figure it out on my own.  I ended up taking the early morning bus to Probolinggo.

Nothing leaves on time in this country, when they fill up, that’s when things leave.  I got to the bus station around 7 and waited a half an hour for the bus to leave.  When I got to Probolinggo, I was asked by everyone and their mother if I was going to Bromo and if I wanted a ride.  I knew they would charge outrageous prices to get up the mountain, so instead I found the cheap semi-public minibuses.  For these we had to wait two more hours until the minibus was almost full to leave and then got charged extra on top of the fair because it wasn’t completely full.  


The drive up the mountain was beautiful.  Along the way we went through so many little towns and saw rice patties on the sides of mountains.  It looked almost impossible to get to the crops let alone tend them.  Indonesian people are quite innovative. 

 When we got to Bromo there was a surprise entrance fee of 75,000, about 15 USD. Come on man!  I and the other foreigners went to the park office instead of paying the driver for a ticket, just in case we were getting ripped off.  That irritated the driver, but he eventually took us and we got an official looking entrance pass.  After that bit of hub bub I checked guest house prices and found café lava.  I had been looking online about how to do Bromo without a tour and this place had turned up quite a bit in blogs and general discussions.  It was a cute little guesthouse with internet, western food and informative representatives that told me the best time to go up the mountain and about how long it would take.  I decided on the sunrise hike, so going to bed early was essential.
 
I thought maybe I would need a flashlight, but the general store in town was closed.  I found out in the morning that my cell phone light worked well and didn’t drain my battery.  The hike was only about an hour.  So I woke up at four and followed the path everyone seemed to be taking.  Everyone, again, asked if I needed a ride, but I politely refused.  An hour hike is nothing, but it was off season.  I’m sure these guys needed the money.

The walk was pretty interesting.  The first part of the walk was just a dirt road that led down into sand dunes or, I guess, you could even call it a dessert.  Walking through the dessert was peaceful.  It was a wide expanse of nothing.  At this time in the morning you could see the grey of the false dawn a speckling of stars and little else.  I also saw motorbike lights and 4x4 coming down different paths to go to Bromo.  At the end of the dessert walk was where I met a little scariness.  I could hear a pack of dogs in the distance, but not too far, barking.  I thought it was probably wild dogs, but then I reminded myself that people walk through here all the time and there are tons of people traveling to Bromo first thing in the morning.  They probably belong to one of the natives who live out here.  Once I got past that bit of scariness I had to walk across old river beds and up a windy path to the base of the volcano.  Here people were selling coffee, snacks and ramen.  I also was asked if I wanted to ride a horse up the rest of the way.  I knew it wasn’t far, and also the guide would be walking as I was riding.  To me that seemed a bit silly.  I know how to ride a horse without a guide and also how to walk. 

 
 After a bit I got to base of the volcano and the stairway up to the rim, the hardest part of the hike, and climbed my way up.  It was just about dawn and there were about a dozen people who had gathered.  The sunrise was pretty, even if it was a tad bit cloudy.  The view, on the other hand, was stunning.  You could see for miles and the terraine was beautiful as it was diverse.   I am glad I woke up early. 

The crater was steaming, but not glowing.  The fumes were noxious when the wind was blowing in the right direction.  I coughed and didn’t want to look in to the wind, it stung my eyes a little until I figured out where to stand.  The way back was much less exciting.  I saw more of the Indonesian horseback riders though, and they seemed pretty nifty.  

To get back down to Probolinggo I had to pay more than when I came up, because we had less people on the bus.  From there it was easy to get  a bus to Surabaya.  I got a bit lost coming out of bus station and then the, o-jeck didn’t take me to right Dunkin Donuts that was next to my hostel.    This was totally my fault; I should have looked up my directions better.  The o-jek driver also seemed like he had cerebral palsy… twitchy, but got me where I told him to go. 

 
 In the end I got a taxi and again we went completely in the wrong direction, but I did get there eventually.  I got irritated with the taxi driver, but we ended up being friends.  The hostel, Da Rifi, was quite nice. It had a cluttered but homey, defiantly lived in, feel. It seemed like the son pretty much ran the show.  He was nice and full of conversation. Also super cheap!
 
 

 Surabaya is boring, but not as boring as Malang.  It had a lot of shopping and a cigarette museum.  I did need to pick up a few things for myself, so I went shopping for a bit and then tried to figure out how to get to the Sampoerna factory.  Sampoerna cigarettes are probably the most popular cigarettes in Indonesia.  They are a version of a clove cigarette, but I would say a bit milder.  I personally don’t like them.  Clove cigarettes give me headaches.





The factory was pretty sweet and free.  I even got a tour guide to show me around for a bit.  She showed me the first store that the creator had, and then the slow process to him becoming a cigarette giant.  They even showed me the making of boxes and if I had been there during the day, the factory floor in full swing.  It was pretty cool and I wished Evey had come with me.  She loves those cigarettes and would have enjoyed to trip to their factory.



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