Friday, January 30, 2015

Gili Islands: tattooing disaster



So my exit out of New Zealand was as graceful as you can make a 4:30AM trip.  Mike took me to the airport.  Bless his soul. 


My agenda  was to fly from Auckland to Sydney to Bali.  

Bali Hostel
As usual I got to the Bali airport and I hated  it.  Denpensar (Bali) is full of hawkers.  I’ve been there three times, you would think I would get used to it.  But no, they annoy the shit out of me.  

I got to my hostel and met some cool people.  Unfortunately I was exhausted, so I didn’t get to know them all real well.   

Now my goal for this trip to Indonesia was to go to the Gili Islands and maybe make it over to Lombeok.


The Blue Water Express is the only speed boat you can schedule online to get to the Gillis.  They were good, and when all the speed boats charge the same amount I’ll take the one that books online and has great reviews.  They gave us free coffee and tea while we were waiting and sea sickness pills before we boarded.  The ride took about 2 ½ hours.  It was smooth sailing.  I had heard a rumor that the weather is always nice on the Gilis.  I was keeping my fingers crossed.


Let’s talk about Gili Trawangan.  This was my first destination.  This is the largest of the three Gili Islands with an estimated permanent population of about 800.  All of the gilis are less touristy than Bali but Gili T is the party Island.  On this island, there are no cops.  Well there are cops, but they only come to fill the ATM and that’s it.  The locals have kind of an agreement with the mainland police.  They can do what they want, as long as the crime rate stays low.  And this works.  The crime rate on the islands is practically non-existent.  This is because if the locals catch you stealing or anything like that you are exiled from the Gilis for life.  The locals sure as heck can’t afford that.  They have family and their livelihood there.  So the only ones that would risk it are the tourists; who are likely to end up in an Indonesian jail.   And that would not be any fun.


I got picked up right away at the harbor.  In Asia I tend not to book my hostels in advanced.  You can usually wander around and find something way cheaper and nicer than you would online.  A nice man took me to the homestay he was working at.  Dua Nina, the homestay, was not as nice as I am used to.  It had no toilet paper, no towel, and I had to use the badea to shower with.  At least I had a fan, and the internet worked every once in a while.  I met some cool people there, and that’s part of the fun.  I love meeting other travelers.


I considered this trip to Indonesia as a holiday, rather than traveling around.  So in true holiday style I did a lot of nothing.  I walked, ate, read a lot, and biked around the island.  Biking around the island only took me two hours and this was because I had to walk to bike through the sand sometimes.  It was peaceful, and not as busy as Bali.  This is what I wanted. 


I managed to sneak in a snorkeling trip as well.  Most people go to this island to get their diving certificate, but I find snorkeling is just as fulfilling.  On the snorkeling trip I met some of the other people staying  at hostel and photographer from Protugual.  We decided to have some drinks after words and then took a crazy horse ride.  It was pretty scary, I felt like we were on a near death experience the entire time.  But we did get to stop and take some pictures.  

naked swinging


I got it in my head while I was on Gili T to get my tattoo done.  I was going to get it in Korea, but because my plans had changed (i.e. I couldn’t get my flight voucher changed to Korea!) I decided Indonesia would be cheaper than The States.  Little did I know what an ordeal I had just signed myself up for.

The shop
When they guys at the hostel found out I wanted a tattoo, they lead me to a shop.  This shop was pretty nice.  Clean inside and out.  It looked fairly new and I discovered that the guy that owned it was from Lomboek, not the Gillis.   

That was good because he had a lot of experience and his tattoos looked wonderful.  I looked through the example books and admired the apprentices tattoos while I waited.  I showed them my design and they said they would do it for $600.  There was no way I was going to pay $600 in a third world country, that part of the reason I had convinced myself to get it done.  It’s supposed to be cheaper.  I told them $300 and wouldn’t budge.  They took it and we scheduled the appointment for later that day. 
 
My design
It started out alright.  They sanitized everything, shaved my arm and got the stencil. They started the black work.  That only took 2 hours. The work was solid too.  This guy defiantly knew what he was doing.  When we started on the color I was impressed as well.  Working on the water background, I could tell that he had much experience making waves.  It looked sweet.

the process
We got into some trouble when he started the other color work.  For some reason he thought this was paint by number and he didn’t have all the colors… So when I asked him to do some of the books brown, or a darker green he looked at me like I was a bit off.  He didn’t like to mix his inks to get custom colors.  Come on!!! 

Then the power went out.  Yup.  You read right. No power.  That meant we had to put the tattoo on hold until it came back on.  This is quite a common occurrence on the gilis.  The head honchos like to regulate the partying so they usually shut the power off for a few hours every night.  It could be one hour or 5, we were luckyish and got a two hour tattoo delay.

Finished!


By this time I was pacing around trying to ignore the pain.  I was tired and cranky.  One of the apprentices wanted me to take aspirin.  I politely refused telling him I didn’t want to bleed more than was necessary.  When the power did finally come back on and we got back to tattooing it was excruciating.  It was 11PM by this time.  Me and the tattoo artist were both tired.  He wanted to cut a few things out.  I did not.  I wanted this finished so I would need to do as little touch up as possible.  In the end, because I was bleeding so much and the ink wasn’t holding, I let him cut out a few details. 

We wrapped my arm up, I paid and went to bed.  I was in so much pain it wasn’t funny.  I had a very hard time sleeping.  

The next day I got up, washed and headed to the boat.  I was off to the next island, Gili Air.  A much more relaxed place.

When I got there a nice man picked me up to bring me to his home stay.  It was much nicer than my last place.  It was band new, and cheap.  They did breakfast and even laundry there.  No wifi, and he told me that was because he only just built the place in July.  It’s next on his list of things to do.  The man and his family were quite nice.  I enjoyed my stay immensely.

the owner and his son


Per usual I did a lot of nothing.  I slept a lot, walked, read, swam and walked some more.  I was having a terrible time with my tattoo.  It had swollen up and still hurt terrible.  So I went to the local clinic.  They said I had an infection, from washing my arm with the local water.  Duh… I kicked myself pretty hard.  Of course I can’t wash an open wound with water I can’t drink.  It was an easy fix though.  I just had to take a week of antibiotics.  My tattoo looked terrible, but at least it was on the healing path now.

After a week of no drinking, lots of fruit juice and sun I returned to Bali to catch my plan to Australia.