Delhi and Agra

 Flying into Delhi was a bit gross, you could see the layers of pollution caught in the fog in the atmosphere while coming in.  That fog never lifted, it was interesting to go outside after a shower. "I'm squeaky clean!!!" Wait, not really. I could just feel the layer of dirt and smog settling on my skin.  This shouldn't have been surprising, but the fog intensified the feeling, for sure.

We were going to Delhi to visit Evey’s friend, who works for the embassy of Seychelles; Patsy.  Also you just can’t go to India without going to Delhi and experiencing all the people jam packed into one little area.  Getting to her place was 100% hassle free.  I expected New Delhi to be hectic and just an endless traffic jam.  It wasn’t, at least not when we got in.  The airport was very nice and there was a taxi stand right outside.  So we got a taxi and he took us right to her doorstep.  I didn’t realize that the embassies were all so close to airport.  This makes sense, those guys are always traveling.  

yes the taxis really look like this

When we got in Patsy had lots of hugs and kisses and dinner waiting for us.  She made us seafood curry, a fresh salad, traditional Seychelles’ fish, rice and even dessert (which we never got too.  OMG so much food!).  She even had brandy, kingfisher strong,  wine and of course conversation about everything under the sun.  I had met Patsy one time when she came home for Christmas with Evey about 5 years ago.  She remembered everything about me, my dog my brother what I have been doing.  I have never met someone with a more outstanding memory.    We were all tired after a long day of travel, but that didn’t prevent us from talking until 2am.  After settling into the lovely atmosphere, she showed us the spare room, fresh towels, extra soap and told us anything we needed was no problem.  

The next day she had all planned out.  We were going into old Delhi.  The ride into old Delhi was cheap even if it was long, about an hour.  We jammed 4 people into a rickshaw and headed out.  The driver drove a bit crazily, but I think that is to be expected when you have 10 million people living in one place
.  

Old Dlehi was exactly how I imagined India.  The streets were bursting with people and vendors.  It was dirty, there were monkeys on the building, power lines bunched and hanging dangerously in the alleys and everyone was trying to sell you something.  This is the place where you look around wide eyed and keep a hand on your purse.  We just walked around for a bit and then discovered sari shops. 

 Evey and I both wanted saris, and Leo was going to get one for his girlfriend.  The shops were very nice.  You take off your shoes and sit on the floor.  They always have pillows to cushioning your bum.  Then the salesman will take all the saris and display them on the floor in front for you, starting with the most expensive first, of coarse.  Evey ended up buying three saris and I ended up buying two.  Leo found the sari he wanted quickly, and I think he got bored half way through us looking at all the pretty fabrics.  

 After visiting the two sari shops we just wandered and absorbed the sights.  I loved watching people cook on the streets and just watching people interact.  Delhi is the best place for people watching I’ve been to so far.  We called a taxi and picked up beer.  While waiting for the cab, we met some rickshaw drivers that were nice and we gave them beer.

 The next stop was pizza hut.  My brother had told me that pizza in India was super strange.  After living in Korea for so long, I think it kind of was lost on me.  I’ve seen pizza with corn, potato wedges, fried shrimp… you name it.  The pizza we got was a bit strange.  It had tofu nuggets baked into the crust, and a sauce on top.  But it tasted yummy.  That night we relaxed and got ready for our trip to Agra in the morning.

Agra was an 8 hour day trip.  We hired a driver for the day, and it wasn’t too expensive, especially split between 3 people.  We got picked up and then started the couple hour drive to Agra.  On the way we got delayed almost immediately.  There had been a major pile up on the highway and the road was closed.  The fog in Delhi was horrible this time of year.  You could barley see 10 feet in front of you.  I'm sure some idiot was driving too fast and got in an accident, causing all the mayhem.  The pile up had happened around 8 in the morning, and the original plan was to start the trip to Agra at 7.  If we had stuck to that plan, we might have been in that accident.  Thankfully sleeping in was important to us that day.  Agra is small town, it’s nothing fancy.  It has the usually fruit stalls and run down business on the side of the road.  It also had a mix of dirt and paved roads.  I was a bit surprised because I know how much tourism goes through there.  

So the first thing we saw was the Taj Mahal.  We got dropped off at the main gate and it was a short walk to the entrance to the grounds.  This part was probably the most annoying part of the trip.  There were venders everywhere and they will not leave you alone.  I was polite at first saying “no thank you” and other niceties, but eventually I just started saying “Dude! NO.”  I shocked a few guys that way.  But it’s annoying to have someone hassling you and then push and push and push even after you politely refused.  

We could have taken a tuk tuk or a camel ride to the main entrance, but we all decided walking was fine.  I wanted a camel ride, but on a camel, not on a cart.  The camels were a bit intimidating, one tried to bite me, even though it was muzzled.  Evey says they are creepy.  “Their legs are like folding chairs” that’s just weird.

The queue was quite short, but as foreigners we had to pay a lot more than the locals and got a different line.  But with our ticket we got shoe covers and a bottle of water!!!  Ah the justification of over charging.  So back to the Taj.  It was phenomenal.  You see the pictures and you think, wow that’s pretty, but in person… I was blown away.  The carving, the inlay stone work, everything was
                                         just beautiful. 

The story behind the Taj is beautiful as well. In 1631, Shah Jahan, emperor during the Mughal empire's period of greatest prosperity, was grief-stricken when his third wife, Mumtaz Mahal, a Persian princess, died during the birth of their 14th child, Gauhara Begum.  So after she died he constructed the most beautiful mozulium to remember his wife.  The construction of the Taj took 16 years, and completion of the grounds took another  five.  That man was crazy in love, and crazy rich.

The grounds were just as beautiful as the Taj it’s self.  Everything was well manicures and there were gardeners constantly working on them.  From the balcony of the Taj you could look over the river and see a few forts in the distance.   Adjacent to the Taj there is also a mosque and more tombs.  These were built in red sandstone.  Quiet a nice contrast to the white marble of the Taj itself.

After we saw the main spectacle we headed over to Agra Fort.  This is still used for military today, so some parts were closed off to the public.  I found it quite nice.  The fort, with it’s red sandstone, was quite interesting.  It had intricate carving and paintings inside.  Much of the architecture was run down.  It’s always sad when you see frescos covered in unpainted plaster or fading into nothing.  

The fort also had beautiful gardens and white marble gazebos inlaid with semi-precious stones.  I enjoyed it quite a bit.  It was also a bit of a maze, which was fun with three people.  “Where’s Evey?” “I don’t know, I think she went over there.”  “Found her! Where’s Leo?”

The last thing we got to see was the tomb of Akbar the great.  It was situated on the river.  It was quite small compared to the last few things we saw, but still a beautiful place to watch the sun setting.  Several Indian families were there visiting as well. 

 The day tour took longer than it should have so our driver, and all of us, were ready to hit the road and get back to Delhi.  This is when crazy driving ensued.  I could tell the driver was frustrated, but he was perfectly nice to us.  Delhi traffic isn’t kind to anyone, I would have road rage all the time.

We got back and Patsy had appetizers and drinks waiting for us again.  She is such a sweetie.  We had fried prawns and spring rolls and then we ordered in.  We got some Indian curries that were just fantastic, three different kinds of bread and it was all very cheap.  They packaged it in plastic bags, I thought that was interesting.  So we ate like kings, talked and hung out again.

The next day was just a relaxed day before we headed to Jiapur.  So on the agenda was getting train tickets, but the plans changed when I checked my e-mail.  I had been accepted for my working holiday visa for New Zealand.  Unfortunately I had to get a chest x-ray sent to them within two weeks.  So with a little research I found an approved hospital in Delhi that could do it for me.  

Paperwork is always stressful for me, and this was no different.  We headed to the hospital, I waited in the wrong line forever.  Then I got headed in the right direction and they told me I needed things I didn’t have.  So we left the hospital, got the things I didn’t have and headed back.  Got everything done, and then was told I needed to pick up my x-ray on Saturday.  “I won’t be here on Saturday” You can pick them up on Friday.  “I won’t be here Friday.” Basically I got really flustered and left thinking I had just wasted a good amount of my time, my friends time and money.  In the end I just rearranged my travel plans, but in that moment I was just too full of thoughts and anxieties to think clearly.

After all that hub bub, we headed to the train station.  Found out the train was full and booked a van to Jaipur instead.  And we were ready for our next adventure!